Wales and Portland





Andy at Idswell slabs
30.05.2011





Had a few fun days in Wales, although it was fairly wet and cold at times. Arrived on Saturday afternoon and climbed at Little Tryffan. The following day, rain meant we decided to go for a walk instead, but it cleared up and dried about three pm and so we decided to go and try our luck at Milestone Buttress, where we managed to climb one route (Direct Route, VD***). I led the first pitch and Tom led the second. As the fourth pitch was wet we all just scrambled out from there. We did, however, have a bad time getting back down, as we were expected to be back relatively early and it was already getting quite dark. Instead of taking time to look for the descent which we weren't sure existed, we decided it would be best to ab-off the fixed rope next to The Pulpit, which was, unfortunately very much like a waterfall at that point. Despite only having one prussik loop between the three of us, we all managed to get down with barely a scratch, and made it back to Gwersylla campsite for 23:00... Monday was to be our final day of climbing, but no climbing really happened - it rained quite a bit and we weren't sure how much it would clear up by the time we left, so instead we decided to go for a little walk followed by a stroll and lunch through Betws-y Coed. It was a shame that we didn't get to climb, but was nice to have a rest day, although the drive back became quite long and tiring!



Chris starting up Tipping the Scales (F7a)
31.05.2011

Today, after a relatively late start, about 9am, Chris and I decided to head off to Portland, where Chris wanted to work a couple of routes at the New Cuttings. It being an odd occurence that people should want to climb sport routes with me, I clearly seized this opportunity to go climbing, despite the New Cuttings being low on my list of favourite climbing locations... The climbs there are all fairly short, which therefore supposedly accounts for the difficulty of the low-grade climbs. We climbed Elephant on Rollerskates, F4, then received a blow to our confidence by having to rest on the second clip of Limbo Dancer, F5. I then realised that it was just a question of pulling through, and felt slightly ridiculous... I then led Tipping the Scales, F7a, but used a clip-stick, so didn't really count, even though I managed all the moves after bouldering half-way several times first - an interesting climb, but the flowstone section and then the top seemed rather sketchy, and the third bolt had been ripped out, which would have made the climb very scary to lead normally...

Rain stops play... again



Harry trying to set a new route 26.05.2011



Serve me right for choosing to live in the South West of England, can't really find anywhere more rainy! However I can't complain due to the enormous number of locations we have dotted around Devon... Many days are also gloriously sunny and warm. Today, however, was not one of those days. English weather at its weirdest. Raining on and off, often interspersed with sunny breaks. Despite plans to go to Bonehill with Charles and Emma, we decided against this, and stayed in Exeter instead. As Harry was looking for a way in which to celebrate the end of his exams, we decided another trip to the Woody was in order. Climbed 'The Darkness' for the first time, but failed to climb it backwards. Still counts as having climbed it as far as I'm concerned... Harry, as usual, tried to crush everything in his path, but seemed quite tired, so he was clearly climbing worse as a result of this! Still no plans for climbing tomorrow, but then trip to Snowdonia over the weekend should be good fun!

Eva is back in town...



Tom finishing Lapse in Taste, F5+
25.05.2011



Finally! For the first time since the beginning of April I've been able to go and climb sport - people are seldom willing to do so, despite it being my favourite style of climbing... Was great to catch up again with Tom, Eva and Gemma, although none of us were climbing particularly hard routes, either because of injury or simply not climbing enough of late. This was Eva's first climbing in over a year. Repeated two climbs I'd done previously at Arch Rock, 'Three Pounds Per Tonne' (F4) and 'Oh Pretty Woman!' (F5) and led 'Room With a View' (F6a+*) for the first time, which was an absolutely amazing climb, although with a tricky top-out where I had to tend a bit further left than I intended despite being very pumped on it. Felt tempted to continue by finishing off the rest of the climbs within my grade there, but we decided that it being quite a nice day, we should go for a walk instead, so we saw a side of the gorge we'd previously not seen. I often forget how much nicer Cheddar is in the summer than it is in the colder months!

Its a sunny day - Let's go indoors!



Sam about to start 'The Circuit'
23.05.2011

 Little bit of a fail on the weather front - it looked set to be a miserable, wet afternoon on the moor, so I backed out of a trip which had been re-directed to our local indoors centre, and decided to go to the Woody (our local training wall) instead. Weather cleared up very well indeed, making me look ever so slightly foolish, but at least I got some climbing done - headed up with Sam, and finally nailed 'Perpetual Motion', a climb there which I've been trying for a couple of weeks... Sam, having not climbed in quite a while had a bit of a rough time at it, but is clearly so into self-harm that he'll undoubtedly return at some point!

Climbing before the rapture



The Pulpit, Hound Tor
20.05.2011





Tom finishing Problem 6 (javu) V2 5c*
20.05.2011



Spent the last three days climbing around Devon, taking advantage of the curious weather we've been having! Finally got round to climbing Suspension Flake (VS), but got pumped and had to rest before topping out - will have to return to do it clean! Also worked a V4, which was far easier than anticipated! Dewerstone yesterday was wicked - only seconded Luke up Vala (HVS) and Climbers' Club Ordinary (VS) / Direct (HVS), but was spectacular climbing and all in all, very enjoyable - Vala is definitely one I'd be interested in leading, although maybe I should wait until I climb a little harder first...

Back from the Lakes



Liz leading Slab Climb, S 4a, Castle Rock of Triermain
30.04.2011



Finally after three days of amazing, exposed trad climbing in the Lake District, we drove back home, clearing up Luke's uncle and aunts' house before leaving - I may not be a convert to trad, being a sport-climber at heart, but there is a lot to be said for the epic multi-pitches we did! Only got three climbs done (although at Gimmer crag we seem to have crossed over two or maybe even three separate routes!) but these took several hours, and leave one feeling completely exhausted! Didn't get a chance to go to Napes needle, but its likely to be quite busy at this sort of time, especially following from the Royal Wedding and bank holiday... Isengard was well worth it, although the first pitch strained my arm and made me lose the on-sight, but the following pitches were all amazing climbing, especially the third pitch with an amazingly exposed section moving out onto a ledge overlooking the whole of the valley. There is a lot left to offer in the Lakes, and much that I'm keen to do, so I'll have to visit it again some time!