I can show you how not to climb an E3/4!

Went to Bonehill this evening as Chris wanted to work his project, The Umpire Strikes Back V2 6a (E4). We arrived and set the top-rope up to 'warm up' on You Cannot Be Serious V3 6a (E2/3), but could barely get a metre or so off the ground. We then moved the top-rope along to The Umpire Strikes Back, and Chris got quite high on it before finding himself at a loss of where to go or where the holds were. I barely got off the slab - could probably have done it in a different way to Chris, seeing as I couldn't reach the same holds as such a tall person, I flailed around wildly for a bit and then came back down. After this failure, we went over to Big Slab. I soloed up problem:74 (3c), a Diff, and then led one of the lines to the right of this problem, which supposedly go at about VS. Quite unprotected after halfway, but quite fun nonetheless and is the second VS I've led! (The first being Aramis on Haytor, 20.03.2011... After this, seeing as it as getting darker and there was a light drizzle in the air, we decided to call it a day and head off...

Setting new routes?

White Rock 03.07.2011

Luke on Central Route (D)
03.07.2011

Again, a lazy start to the day - Luke and I decided that we should go and explore something different, so we went to White Rock, a limestone quarry near Newton Abbot, to find out what the routes there were like. We were pleasantly surprised to find the crag to be larger than we had at first anticipated. We approached via Ogwell Mill, as suggested in the guidebook, walking to the end of the road and then turning left to walk through a field, passing through a gate, and then coming almost immediately upon the slightly obscured crag on our right, just behind and old quarry building. The ground appeared to be slightly overgrown and the rock was a bit on the loose side... We decided that Luke should lead, and we attempted what we assumed to be Central Route (D) in order to check out the crag. As we suspected, it was a bit loose and chossy and quite overgrown, however there were no major difficulties, although there were very few gear placements, which made the leader's task just a little bit harder. The route we decided to follow started slightly to the left of the lowest point, at the best belay ledge and then up the most logical line towards some blocks half-way up, just after which there was a fairly solid PR. We then moved a couple of metres left to top out and ab down off from the top. The second route we did, possibly West Buttress (VS), was fairly difficult, although VS was probably a fair enough grade for it. Gear was, again, sparse, as we followed the line up and left to a platform and then slowly traversed up and left until topping out just shy of a large gap on the face. There is probably plenty of room there for new climbs to be put up, but in its present condition it would hardly attract many people to come... We did, however, manage to clear a thin layer of dust off of those two climbs, which have probably rarely been climbed in the past!

How to take a whipper!

Got a call early this morning by Harry, who was keen to go climb some trad - we decided to go to Haytor, seeing as Harry wanted to climb Aviation (E1 5b***) and I had a couple of projects which I had wanted to get. We turned up fairly late, having left shortly after 11.30, and headed immediately for Lowman. Harry managed to climb the first pitch fairly well, although he did seem a bit scared at times and only placed three pieces of gear, none on the final traverse. I slowly seconded him, but had a bit of a nightmare, having to rest on the rope at the bottom before I managed to work out the sequence to commit to the flake. After that I was OK until I got to the traverse. I shook out a bit first before removing the last piece of gear between Harry and myself, and then slowly moved across, grabbing the jug-like holds. Sadly, however, my nifty footwork did me little good on the incredibly polished granite, and the pump in my arms proved to be just too much, causing me to take quite a nasty fall for about 4 metres, swinging beneath Harry and then back round, finally ending up directly beneath him. After shaking out a bit and finding that I was more or less intact save for a few cuts and scratches on my arms and legs, I climbed the delicate moves up the slabs and onto the large hollow flake where Harry had set up the belay. Once we'd switched over the belay, Harry once again started to lead, but unfortuantely couldn't figure out the first move, and eventually, after a few minutes, just lunged for the large jug above him and caught it. Once up at the top, he belayed me up, as I managed to climb the second pitch clean although still slightly nervy from my fall. I decided to forgo leading any VS or HVS climbs and only led Step Across (D*) in order to feel slightly better about myself and make myself lead a climb after a fall. After this we decided that it was about time to head back home as Aviation had been the only climb there which Harry had fancied doing and I wasn't feeling particularly psyched after the whipper!

How to not climb..

Went to Saddle Tor yesterday evening with Chris - didn't manage to climb anything though, everything there seems to be a little bit hard for me - did manage to get most of the moves on the Hidden Traverse (V4***), although losing some skin in the process... After warming up on the Hidden Traverse, we then moved on to the main boulder, where we tried Bjorn Again (E2 6a*) as well and problem:12 (javu) (V2 5c). Unfortunately, as I tried a slightly renegade way of starting up Bjorn Again, a piece of loose rock crumbled and brought me back down again, along with a small chunk of rock - fortunately it doesn't seem as though the climb was at all impaired by this, as the large sloper is still there with only a fragment of the edge missing. Sadly although I took photos, they were taken on my camera instead of on the camera memory card, so I need to figure out how to transfer them now... However, there's no rush, as my fingertips are pretty sore from the moor's granite touch!

Summer bouldering

Harry on Tom's Traverse (V4 6a) 26.06.2011



Mike on Problem 69 (javu) (V0 5b)
26.06.2011



Yesterday went to Bonehill for a spot of bouldering. I'm not that big on bouldering, but it was a lovely sunny day and was just nice to get outside. Most of the time was spent with us coweing away in the shade, but we spent a generous amount of time in the sun, all of us getting a little burnt by it. Ross and Harry tried to climb The Wave (V6 6c), but the rock was just too slippery to be able to get hold of the starting holds! Chris and I meanwhile tried Rippled Wall (V4 6b***), but could only just make it off the ground, which, for a first attempt at it wasn't too bad, I feel. I was also convinced to try the slightly burly problem, Tom's Traverse (V4 6a), but although I found I could do each individual move, stringing them together seemed a little bit harder. Eventually, Harry, Ross and Chris decided to head back off, whereas I decided to stick around and keep climbing with Mike and his friend when they arrived. We climbed the problems at the Warm Up Slab and Baby Slab, but otherwise we were quite content just to chill out and wander around for a while before packing up and heading back to Exeter. Mike finally stuck the dyno at Greg's Dyno (V3 6a), but decided that topping out on it didn't seem particularly nice, and so just jumped back down.

A pleasing drive around Dartmoor

After a lazy start to the day we started driving towards the Dewerstone to teach Chris how to lead trad properly. However, took a detour to Haytor to see if we could find Luke's 'South Devon and Dartmoor ' guidebook, which had, unfortunately, disappeared. We decided it was a bit windy and there were too many people around so we continued on our way to the Dewerstone. After a cautious walk-in, we found that this, too, was wet, and, after some deliberation, decided to try Sheeps Tor. Arriving there, we found that we could hardly see the tor as a result of the thick cloud which had settled over it. Nonetheless, we walked up, found that the rock was wet, but possibly climeable. Luke started soloing Sheltered Crack (D), but backed off it , feeling it was somewhat precarious. I soloed up Play Crack (D), but we then decided that it wasn't worth trying to climb there and left. Shame, really, as I had my eye on Wind Wall (HVS 5a*) and Mushroom Wall (VS 5a*). Oh well, maybe next time... Instead we drove to the Barn, where we tried out all their new routes for an hour and got quite worn out on these. It was good fun, and probably good for strength (not my strong point in any case), but still, indoors comes far beneath outdoors in my estimations...

Barbecue at Hound Tor

Gemma on Problem:6 (javu) (V2 5c*)
23.06.2011

So, to take brief break from revision, I accepted an offer from Nick, Gem and Dave to go for a barbecue out on the moor. We initially thought we'd go to Bovey Woods, but eventually changed our minds in favour of the slightly more open and accesible Hound Tor. I repeated a number of problems from our previous trip there, but also managed to get Aerobic Traverse (V2 5c**) and a few more easy-ish problems. I was sorely tempted by Aerobic Wall (E2 5c), but it looked fairly high and I didn't particularly fancy falling from the top, especially without a pad beneath me for protection. I'd like to think I could do it, but probably couldn't. Maybe just as well I didn't try. Also had a go at a couple of climbs on the Skin Graft Boulder, Skin Graft (V2 5c*) and Cosmetix (V5 6b*), although I managed neither, I was fairly interested in them and will doubtless return to try them out again at some point...

Torbryan - first F6b+!!

Nick on Little White Lie (F7b+)
25.09.2010

Went to Torbryan Quarry with Nick and Gemma on Sunday evening / afternoon, and were lucky to find that we were the only people who had had this idea, as there was nobody else there. Gemma was feeling a bit poorly, and wasn't feeling very up for climbing, but Nick led (albeit with a few falls), Boogie on Down (6c+*) and Little White Lie (F7b**). I seconded Boogie on Down with only a couple of falls (better than previous attempts), and had a go on Little White Lie, but decided not to soldier on once I'd fallen off a couple of times, in order to save my energy to lead Peggy Potato (F6b+), my first 6b graded climb! I attempted it once, but had to stop and rest, as I'd forgotten how to move uo from the first clip, but once I'd sorted my feet out I managed to climb it. Once I'd come down and shaken out, I attempted it again and this time got it clean, although I was fairly nervous at the low crux... Now that's ticked, I feel tempted to work Boogie on Down, although i have yet to second a 6c clean...

Brean Down and Cornwall

Nick on Brean Dream (F7b+)
08.06.2011

Just got back two days ago from a couple of excursions over the past couple of weeks. Went to Brean Down for the first time on the eighth, and really enjoyed that. Lovely location, by the sea, although parking was limited and somewhat hard to find. Nick led all three climbs, although he had to rest on Brean Dream (F6b) and used a clip-stick on Tide Rising (F7b+), also climbed Bikini Atoll (F6c+). The latter two were quite tricky, and I had to rest on both, although I clung on and climbed Brean Dream clean. It had a horrible start though, which was quite hard and boulder-y... Gemma only seconded Brean Dream and Bikini Atoll, and although she did neither of them clean, she came very close to doing so on Bikini Atoll. We ran out of time for her to have a go at Tide Rising. The start is relatively easy, but Nick had trouble on the third clip and was unable to clip it, would have been a nasty fall if he had fallen there... All the climbing was quite finger-y... to some extent my type of climbing, but it was sharp and tricky too. It was, however, a nice crag which I would be keen to visit again. However, considering that the easiest problem there was Brean Dream at F6b, I reckon it'll be a while before I'm capable of leading anything myself - maybe Torbryan would be a bit easier and more accesible...

Jen on Banana Flake (VD**)
10.06.2011

From the 10th to the 13th, I went down to Cornwall with the club. Upon arriving we went to Sennen, where Mike asked me to climb with Amy and Gemma. I know that Gemma is capable of climbing quite hard, but wasn't sure how Amy would handle it. My first climb was Corner Climb (VD*), which was fairly pleasant and easy. However, Amy had trouble climbing it, resting on the rope unexpectedly at one point, which hurt me as it pulled me into an awkward position and placed a lot of strain on my waist and also on my back, which hurt the whole weekend, probably as a long-term effect of the car crash on 27.03.2011... After that initial setback though, Amy forged on and eventually got to the top. Gemma swam up it very quickly, and once she got up we had a chat and Amy decided she was done for the day. We also bumped into the guys from the DUMC, including a chap whom we met on the 31.05.2011 at the Cuttings... Gemma and I then abbed down again and, having been the last two to ab down we decided to stick to an easy climb, and climbed Staircase (D*).

Harry on Doorpost (HS 4b)
11.06.2011

On Saturday we went to Bosigran, where I once again proved that I am incapable of leading multi-pitch routes without having an epic on them. Climbed Doorway (S 4a*), but had issues at the top of the final pitch, where there was so much rope drag that I was incapable of setting up a belay to bring up my seconds, Emma and Sam. Eventually, as I was about to climb down and retrieve my gear so as to stop all the rope drag, Mark and Harry topped out, allowing me to downclimb the route on their rope, strip the annoying gear and then bring up my seconds... All in all, it took us 5 hours to get one climb done. I doubt that my seconds were too impressed, but then, they were climbing trad with me, which takes forever. I am, after all, far more interested in sport routes than in multi-pitch trad.

 

Mike on Bosigran Ridge (Commando Ridge)
13.06.2011



Although we were meant to go to Sennen the following day, we instead went to the Barn. Although I must say that the Barn is an incredible indoors wall, I was not impressed by the fact that we had to go back into Devon to climb, and would much rather have gone out for a walk, or to visit some other scenic location in Cornwall... As it is, we went, and I had a relatively good session there. Our final day in Cornwall we once more went to Bosigran. Sam, Amy and I were paired up, and along with Tom, Emma and Gemma, we went to climb at Bosigran. The other nine went off to climb Bosigran ridge together. Liz and Andy turned up and must've climbed something a bit harder, although I didn't see them for most of the day. We started off the day with a quick and nice climb, Alison Rib (D*), which I led last year, but then, its a classic, and I wanted to climb the second pitch too. Amy managed to get up it, although she struggled on the final section, and Sam whizzed up it. Determined to crank on, we decided to climb Clob (VD). Unfortunately, this proved to be a mistake on my part, as we had to share a belay ledge with some other climbers who were climbing Clob before us and then with some guys who had changed from climbing Doorway to doing Ledge Climb. I stopped and had a chat with the guys from UNUMC, which was quite nice - they were probably committee members, as they seemed to know a fair bit about the club... Once I managed to secure the belay point, I started by belaying Amy up. However, she got stuck at the end of the first pitch, so she had to be lowered down. I then belayed Sam up and attempted the second pitch, but unfortunately strayed onto a much harder climb, possibly E1 or E4, so I had to downclimb that, retrieving the gear and get down onto the dubious belay ledge before finishing up the correct route.

Wales and Portland





Andy at Idswell slabs
30.05.2011





Had a few fun days in Wales, although it was fairly wet and cold at times. Arrived on Saturday afternoon and climbed at Little Tryffan. The following day, rain meant we decided to go for a walk instead, but it cleared up and dried about three pm and so we decided to go and try our luck at Milestone Buttress, where we managed to climb one route (Direct Route, VD***). I led the first pitch and Tom led the second. As the fourth pitch was wet we all just scrambled out from there. We did, however, have a bad time getting back down, as we were expected to be back relatively early and it was already getting quite dark. Instead of taking time to look for the descent which we weren't sure existed, we decided it would be best to ab-off the fixed rope next to The Pulpit, which was, unfortunately very much like a waterfall at that point. Despite only having one prussik loop between the three of us, we all managed to get down with barely a scratch, and made it back to Gwersylla campsite for 23:00... Monday was to be our final day of climbing, but no climbing really happened - it rained quite a bit and we weren't sure how much it would clear up by the time we left, so instead we decided to go for a little walk followed by a stroll and lunch through Betws-y Coed. It was a shame that we didn't get to climb, but was nice to have a rest day, although the drive back became quite long and tiring!



Chris starting up Tipping the Scales (F7a)
31.05.2011

Today, after a relatively late start, about 9am, Chris and I decided to head off to Portland, where Chris wanted to work a couple of routes at the New Cuttings. It being an odd occurence that people should want to climb sport routes with me, I clearly seized this opportunity to go climbing, despite the New Cuttings being low on my list of favourite climbing locations... The climbs there are all fairly short, which therefore supposedly accounts for the difficulty of the low-grade climbs. We climbed Elephant on Rollerskates, F4, then received a blow to our confidence by having to rest on the second clip of Limbo Dancer, F5. I then realised that it was just a question of pulling through, and felt slightly ridiculous... I then led Tipping the Scales, F7a, but used a clip-stick, so didn't really count, even though I managed all the moves after bouldering half-way several times first - an interesting climb, but the flowstone section and then the top seemed rather sketchy, and the third bolt had been ripped out, which would have made the climb very scary to lead normally...

Rain stops play... again



Harry trying to set a new route 26.05.2011



Serve me right for choosing to live in the South West of England, can't really find anywhere more rainy! However I can't complain due to the enormous number of locations we have dotted around Devon... Many days are also gloriously sunny and warm. Today, however, was not one of those days. English weather at its weirdest. Raining on and off, often interspersed with sunny breaks. Despite plans to go to Bonehill with Charles and Emma, we decided against this, and stayed in Exeter instead. As Harry was looking for a way in which to celebrate the end of his exams, we decided another trip to the Woody was in order. Climbed 'The Darkness' for the first time, but failed to climb it backwards. Still counts as having climbed it as far as I'm concerned... Harry, as usual, tried to crush everything in his path, but seemed quite tired, so he was clearly climbing worse as a result of this! Still no plans for climbing tomorrow, but then trip to Snowdonia over the weekend should be good fun!

Eva is back in town...



Tom finishing Lapse in Taste, F5+
25.05.2011



Finally! For the first time since the beginning of April I've been able to go and climb sport - people are seldom willing to do so, despite it being my favourite style of climbing... Was great to catch up again with Tom, Eva and Gemma, although none of us were climbing particularly hard routes, either because of injury or simply not climbing enough of late. This was Eva's first climbing in over a year. Repeated two climbs I'd done previously at Arch Rock, 'Three Pounds Per Tonne' (F4) and 'Oh Pretty Woman!' (F5) and led 'Room With a View' (F6a+*) for the first time, which was an absolutely amazing climb, although with a tricky top-out where I had to tend a bit further left than I intended despite being very pumped on it. Felt tempted to continue by finishing off the rest of the climbs within my grade there, but we decided that it being quite a nice day, we should go for a walk instead, so we saw a side of the gorge we'd previously not seen. I often forget how much nicer Cheddar is in the summer than it is in the colder months!

Its a sunny day - Let's go indoors!



Sam about to start 'The Circuit'
23.05.2011

 Little bit of a fail on the weather front - it looked set to be a miserable, wet afternoon on the moor, so I backed out of a trip which had been re-directed to our local indoors centre, and decided to go to the Woody (our local training wall) instead. Weather cleared up very well indeed, making me look ever so slightly foolish, but at least I got some climbing done - headed up with Sam, and finally nailed 'Perpetual Motion', a climb there which I've been trying for a couple of weeks... Sam, having not climbed in quite a while had a bit of a rough time at it, but is clearly so into self-harm that he'll undoubtedly return at some point!

Climbing before the rapture



The Pulpit, Hound Tor
20.05.2011





Tom finishing Problem 6 (javu) V2 5c*
20.05.2011



Spent the last three days climbing around Devon, taking advantage of the curious weather we've been having! Finally got round to climbing Suspension Flake (VS), but got pumped and had to rest before topping out - will have to return to do it clean! Also worked a V4, which was far easier than anticipated! Dewerstone yesterday was wicked - only seconded Luke up Vala (HVS) and Climbers' Club Ordinary (VS) / Direct (HVS), but was spectacular climbing and all in all, very enjoyable - Vala is definitely one I'd be interested in leading, although maybe I should wait until I climb a little harder first...

Back from the Lakes



Liz leading Slab Climb, S 4a, Castle Rock of Triermain
30.04.2011



Finally after three days of amazing, exposed trad climbing in the Lake District, we drove back home, clearing up Luke's uncle and aunts' house before leaving - I may not be a convert to trad, being a sport-climber at heart, but there is a lot to be said for the epic multi-pitches we did! Only got three climbs done (although at Gimmer crag we seem to have crossed over two or maybe even three separate routes!) but these took several hours, and leave one feeling completely exhausted! Didn't get a chance to go to Napes needle, but its likely to be quite busy at this sort of time, especially following from the Royal Wedding and bank holiday... Isengard was well worth it, although the first pitch strained my arm and made me lose the on-sight, but the following pitches were all amazing climbing, especially the third pitch with an amazingly exposed section moving out onto a ledge overlooking the whole of the valley. There is a lot left to offer in the Lakes, and much that I'm keen to do, so I'll have to visit it again some time!